Then measure the floor-to-bottom-of-frame height just behind the rear wheels. Personally, I’d prefer to adjust the rear ride height to have the Zerks at the same height as the spindles. So a block under the side rail at about 10” forward of the rear clip joint should be 8-7/16” +- ¼” to establish the correct ride height (disregarding tire size, pressure, wear, etc.). The distance from the top of the reference notch to the bottom of the side rail is 3-1/4” there also. I found the distance from the rear-most edge of the side rail, where it joins the rear clip, to that notch to be 10-1/4” I suspect it’s the same on the 26’, but someone should verify that. The rear reference notches are specified as 40-3/8” aft of the mid-point between the center and rear wheels on a 23’ coach or 56-3/8” on a 26’ coach. It makes more sense to measure the distance from the top of the notch to the bottom of the side rail behind the joint: That distance is 3-1/4” So the specified ride height dimension should place the bottom of the side rail at 9-7/8” +- ¼” from the floor (disregarding tire size, pressure, wear, etc.). The front reference notches are in the front clip, just forward of the joint with the side rails. I have a new frame that doesn't have the reference holes in it to set ride height according to the manual. The transducer is used on a lot of GM cars from that era and later-it has an extra terminal to activate the dash light and is used on most cars such as Buicks and Oldsmobiles that use a dash light. Try those things first, but there are a few more things to try before spending any money. If the speedo doesn't work it is probably due to a broken speedo cable which drives the transducer. ![]() Does your speedo work and if so does it fluctuate a lot-if so, the fluctuation is usually due to a failed transducer. If all of those things are ok-it gets a little more complicated, but is usually the transducer. Also check to see if the electrical plug is hooked up. Check all the hoses that go to it to see if they are connected and not cracked. Follow that hose to the actuator which is right next to it but sort of hidden behind the opening. ![]() The big hose from the back of the diaphragm is notorious for coming off. If all of that works, then check all the vacuum lines. If the light comes on but no engagement, I would first check the vacuum diaphragm.įlip up the engine cover and it is a circular part right at the rear edge a little to the left of center of the opening.Take off the air-cleaner and see if the link from the diaphragm is connected to the carburetor throttle lever and you can take your fingers and compress or pull in the diaphragm-the throttle should move. Check the fuse and next while driving, pull up on the brake pedal with your toe and see if that lets it engage-it may be a mis-adjusted brake switch. Mostly GMCnet.Ī few quick things to try: if it doesn't actuate at all, does the green light on the dash go on-if not then it is probably electrical.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |